KZJ90 - Bleeding air from the fuel system?

Thought it was about time this section got populated, and I'm sure this question will be asked again.
I've recently done a service on my 1KZJ-TE Prado. Started with glowplugs, then I did the contacts on the starter, and while I was in there I decided to pull the intake etc and get rid of all the carbon build up. this required pulling the fuel lines, etc. I now have everything back together, and attempted to purge any air out by cracking the lines at the injectors one at a time, and allowing the air to spit out (along with fuel). I feel like there is still air in there though.

When I start it up, I get an extra two or three cranks before it actually starts, whereas before it was almost instantaneous. No extra smoke, and it runs smoothly as soon as it goes, but the extra couple of turn-overs leads me to believe there's still some air in there somewhere. Is there a bleed screw on the injection pump itself, or do I simply need to keep cracking the pipes at the injectors and making a royal mess of my pristine engine compartment? Or will it simply work itself out as I drive it more?

Opinions? I'm from the Pajero sphere, and this technique always worked for me on the 4d56, 4m40 and 4m41. Perhaps I wasn't thorough enough yet?

Phil

Comments

  • After you check for the correct amount of Genuine Toyota blinker fluid, you probably need to further spray the engine compartment with fuel to further purge the lines. The 4M40 injector pump is often used on the 1kz so shouldn't be much difference expect for mechanical vs electronic control.

    I know with the 120 series and possibly the 90, the original glow plugs had ceramic tips on them which worked quicker and were self regulating for temperature. If you still had ceramic glow plugs and they were replaced then yes, it may start slower.

    The factory service manual doesn't even mention bleeding air from the injectors. I cracked the injector lines when I did mine but didn't need to bleed the pump. It says injectors torqued to 54Nm and the return lines for 30Nm.

    If you suspected a problem with a glowplug, the resistance across the terminals for a Denso plug would be 0.72ohm. Torque specification when tightening is 13Nm.

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